Our cruise started in Bilbao, a city on the northern coast of Spain. To get there we took the train: first to Madrid, then to Bilbao.

The train from Madrid to Bilbao was long (almost 5 hours), and slow by Spanish standards. But it was a comfortable ride, and it traversed some beautiful scenery. Especially notable was the segment from the town of “Miranda de Ebro” to Bilbao. The train passed through stunning green mountains. Huge white and light brown cattle grazed peacefully in pastures. Wide valleys opened up, and we went through small towns of stone houses.

The last stop of the train was the  picturesque Abando station in downtown Bilbao. A large stained glass window dominates the north end of the terminal, though to me the view of pastel colored buildings seen through the open end of the other side was just as lovely.

 

 

 

 

 

 

As with many train stations in Spain, the interior of the station was a lively center with shops and restaurants. It is a shame that so few stations in the United States are like this.

 

 

Our hotel was quite close to the station. After we dropped off our bags, we wandered around the city. The first order of business was getting something to eat. We headed over a bridge, past the opera house, to the city’s “Casco Viejo” (Old quarter) and found a nice restaurant with tables outdoors.

 

 

 

 

Our hunger satisfied, we continued rambling through the city.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Nervion River winds through Bilbao, and provides many opportunities for panoramic views of sectors of the city.

 

We headed through a commercial district, past Jado Plaza,

 

 

 

 

 

 

past Moyua Plaza, and along the Gran Via, until we reached the Sacred Heart monument.

 

 

 

 

 

Then we worked our way, back along the river toward our hotel.

 

Wide walkways along the river make it a perfect area for strolling, jogging, or bicycling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Iberdrola tower in Bilbao is one of the tallest buildings in Spain.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Guggenheim Museum

 

 

 

In front of the Guggenheim is a piece of living art: A dog constructed of living flowers. Apparently it was supposed to have been a temporary installation, but it proved so popular that it has been maintained.

 

The next day we took the Metro from downtown to the suburb of Gexto where the cruise port is located.

 

 

Time to board the ship and head for other cities!

 

 

A note about the Basque language:

Bilbao is in the Basque area of Spain. Although “Spanish” (Often called “Castellano” in Spain) is spoken by most people in the region, there is another language that is native to the Basque area called “Euskara”. The language is of special interest to those who study languages because, not only is it not a “romance langauge”- derived from a form of latin, such as Castellano, Portuguese, French, Italian, etc., but it does not even belong to the larger “Indo-European” language family. Although I made a half-hearted effort to learn a few words of Euskara for this trip, I quickly gave up. It is nothing like any other language I have ever seen. This picture shows a page from a local newspaper.

Algemesí is a small city not far from Xàtiva. It can easily be reached on the commuter train line (Cercanias / Rodalias) that connects Xàtiva and Valencia. Algemesí is the train stop just north of Alzira.

 

Algemesí is host to a yearly festival of note called the “fiesta de la Mare de Déu de la Salut.” Literally this refers to the mother of God of health, or “our lady of health.”

Spain has an abundance of local festivals, and I had not been aware of this particular one. But a couple of days after my arrival I saw an article in the newspaper, so on Sunday September 8^th, I hopped on the train and got off in Algemesí. Much of the festival activity goes on between the small church dedicated to Mare de Déu de la Salut and the Plaza Mayor, site of an impressive, larger church dedicated to Santiago (Saint James).

In addition to the usual activities, this year the event was being filmed for a documentary about the Valencian Community. This meant that in addition to the “civilian” photographers in the crowd, cameras held high overhead to try to capture scenes mostly hidden by the crowd, there were photos being taken from a huge mechanical boom apparatus, and even a remote controlled hovering camera that briefly flew onto the scene.

The day was hot, the square was incredibly packed so I did not stay long enough to really do justice to the festivities. Nevertheless, here are a few pictures and a short video.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brief video highlights:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ah, Ratafia!

I had never heard of Ratafia until I visited Pobla de Segur, a town of 3,000 in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Mere chance led me to a non-descript building at number 4, Avenida Sant Miquel del Pui, just a half a block from the town’s church. This was “Portet Distributions”. Over the front door, bold red letters on a retracted tan awning declared it to be a “Maker of traditional liqueurs of the Pyrenees”.

The retail shop was just inside the front door, the room full of an assortment of bottles filled with colorful liquids. There were tall tapered bottles, small gift bottles, bottles of ornately embellished glass, and a whole row of bottles whose glass neck included a relief image of a man on a raft. I asked for more information, and about 15 minutes later a solidly built bearded man in a dark plaid shirt arrived. His name was Àngel Portet. He and his brother Carlos own the distillery. Over the next forty minutes he gave me a tour of the site, as well as an education about the history and traditions associated with Ratafia.

The name of this business’s signature offering, “Ratafia dels Raiers”, pays tribute to the “Raiers” (rafters), who worked as part of the lumbering process. This now defunct occupation involved tying great logs together into rafts, and floating them down the Noguera Pallaresa river to the Segre and onward toward Lleida.

 

 

Ratafia is the classic liqueur of Catalunya. For generations it has been made in the small towns and on farmsteads throughout the foothills and mountain areas of the Pyrenees. In some areas of France, the term Ratafia can refer to a sort of sangria (wine mixed with fruit juice) embellished with cinnamon or other flavorings. But the classic Ratafia of Catalunya is a smooth sweet liqueur created from a base of aguardiente or anisette, to which the distilled essence of herbs is added.

Àngel and I hit it off right away, and he went into great detail about the origins of this small family business, founded in 1883. A room between the retail shop and the distillery itself was adorned with old photos, and with various copper and clay vessels and other paraphernalia that had once been in active use in the distillery. On one wall, a long bent copper pipe, discolored with age, formed an arc over an antique photo of a group of workers posing next to a large keg. By their style of dress, it must have been the early 1900s. Àngel pointed out that the very same copper pipe mounted on the wall appeared in the photo.

Walnuts, as well as over a dozen different aromatic herbs contribute to the blend that gives Ratafia its distinctive flavor. Tradition calls for the walnuts used in Ratafia to be harvested on the feast of Sant Joan (St. John / San Juan), which aligns with the summer solstice- the longest day of the year. At this point, the nuts are mature but still soft enough to be sliced with a knife.

 

Àngel took me to a room where distillation was in progress. A cube shaped cement block encased a double-envelope tank with a small wood burning firebox inset below.  This was the still. He explained that the temperature must be carefully controlled and that a gas burner would be easier than the wood fire, but… and here he shrugged his shoulders.  Tradition is paramount at the Portet distillery. The exposed cap of the distilling chamber had the graceful shape of an onion, and its metal surface revealed subtle discolorations indicative of both the heat and its age.

In another room two women in smocks were seated at tables, carefully measuring Ratafia into small but distinctively shaped gift-sized bottles. A stack of labels lay on one end of a table, ready to be affixed to the bottles.

 

Every aspect of the processes here was touched by careful craftsmanship- human effort, not mechanized automation.

Àngel spoke about his struggles with the supply of bottles the company uses for its liqueurs. These include a wide range of sizes and shapes, and of course the bottles with the image of the “raier”. Quality was a requisite, and depending on the country of origin, the price could fluctuate with currency exchange rates. But the biggest challenge is that this is a small company, so the quantity of bottles he purchases is miniscule compared with most enterprises. He told me how conversations with bottle vendors went: “Oh, that is all you need to buy? Poor man. Why don’t you buy a whole trailer-load of bottles, then we can talk!”

Besides Ratafia, the Portet distillery produces a variety of sweet liqueurs from various berries, including raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, cranberries, black current, and blackthorn.

Although their core production involves spirits that are rooted in tradition, Àngel and his brother experiment with new creations, including a rather unique liqueur flavored with the essence of mushrooms!

I was content as I left this small, family run distillery. I felt as if here in the foothills of the Pyrenees, I had stumbled into a secret room piled with gold and jewels.

Epilogue:
Late the next morning, it was time to head back to the city of Lleida, and then to Barcelona. I packed up my suitcase, and checked out of Can Fasersia, the boarding house where I was staying, and began my walk to the train station. As I crossed the bridge over the Flamisell River, I heard the toot of a horn. I turned my head and saw Àngel at the wheel of a small van passing by. He greeted me with a wave of his hand and continued down the road. What better send-off from this little town could I have had?

“Fallas” is the name given to the hallmark celebration festival in the Valencian community. Although the grandest expression of the festival occurs in the city of Valencia, celebrations on a smaller scale occur throughout the area, and so of course, Xàtiva has a well developed tradition for this holiday. (indeed, even tiny Anahuir, a town near Xàtiva of barely 80 inhabitants boasts a scaled down version of the celebration!)

I have included not only some photos, but a few short videos in this posting. Watch the videos if you want to get just a little bit more of a feel for the Fallas!

 

The tradition has a variety of components and is timed to coincide with the advent of Spring, and recognition of Saint Joseph.

Planning and work for the event begin right after the end of the previous Fallas. A key element to the work behind the event is the “Casel Fallero”. There are multiple Casel Falleros in each city, and these organizations coordinate efforts, sometimes on a street by street level.

Although some focus on the image of great bonfires that consume elaborate sculptures, that happens rather quickly on the last day of a week long event.

The Fallas involve Valencian pageantry in its fullest manifestation. Women compete for honors dressed in ornate gowns and elaborate hair styles that evoke an earlier, traditional era of Valencian history, with aspects dating to the 16th through the 18th century.

Men wear traditional outfits as well, and together with a small musical band processions of the “Falleros” pass through the town.

Besides the “Falleros”, important components of the Fallas include:

 

Ninots
These are complex artistic sculptures that may involve a wide variety of themes. In years gone by these were wood and paper mache. Today they are more complex and use a wide variety of materials, though it is still absolutely necessary that the sculpture be burnable.

 

 

 

The Mascleta
Every day at 2:00 in the afternoon a wild cacophony of explosive devices is set off, usually lasting about five minutes. The crowd cheers madly. In the city of Valencia, this is done in the square in front of city hall. The event is so popular that the entire central area of town gets packed with people who want to attend, and it is difficult to get very close. (probably a blessing from the perspective of potential hearing loss!)

The “Plantà”
This event involves the erection of Ninots around town. This can be a very involved process, requiring cranes and other equipment. In Valencia, some of the Ninots are gigantic, towering masterpieces, rising to the the height of a 3 or 4 story building. Even in Xàtiva, they can get fairly large. There is often a smaller- “children’s” Ninot near the larger works.

 

The “Despertà”
This is the daily “Wake Up” call to the city, involving an hour long mixture of marching bands and small explosive devices.

Awarding prizes
What is a competition without prizes. Although there is fierce competition among the casal falleros, in the end, everyone is a winner! The video clip below shows a couple of the jubilant teams parading down Xàtiva’s streets in celebration. Fallas is a really fun festival.

The “Ofrenda”
This begins with a precession that includes each falla group- the women and men in their ornate outfits, and accompanied by each group’s band. The women carry flowers. This procession is fairly long, and group after group passes by. I began to wonder if there were even that many people living in the town! In Xàtiva you see whole families involved, including children, and even babies pushed along the procession route in strollers. In Valencia the event culminates in the careful attachment of the flowers on a huge conical wooden structure that represents the Virgin Mary. The concept is the same in Xàtiva, though in our town the flowers are placed on a flat backdrop in the cathedral plaza.

 

 

The “Cremà”
OK, this is what you have been waiting for. On the last night all the year’s hard work on the Ninot sculptures is destroyed in flames. It is not, however, a simple bonfire. The lead Fallera lights a fuse which sets off a grand series of firecrackers, rockets shoot to the sky, and the flames begin to lick at the sculpture, and then suddenly consume it in with great scorching intensity.

The Ninots are burned one after another. At the first, (see video) it was hard to imagine that I was crazy enough to stand as close as I did. When I went to a larger one later, everyone was pushing to get as close as possible to the action. But when the flames leapt up, the crowd quickly fell backwards from the intense heat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A few notes about the Ninots-
Although the imagery of many Ninots is merely fanciful, there is a tradition to use these festive sculptures as an editorial platform for messages that range from humorous caricatures of various aspects of life in Spain (including tourists, and even Falleros!), to biting social and political criticism. Between a brutally damaged economy and a seemingly unending string of exposed cases of corruption involving politicians, banks, and businesses, there is a bitter side to current public opinion.
I spent a day in Valencia looking at some of the Ninots there. Some were stately or whimsical- such as a huge rendering of the Trojan Horse, or a collection of fairy tale figures from Aladdin and from the Arabian Nights. But others conveyed mocking images of failed leaders, and a failed system. The images were a protest of sorts, and could be sarcastic, crude, or even lewd.
In Xàtiva, a Ninot depicted city hall as a house of horrors, behind which the diminutive long-time mayor is engaged in an armed duel with a former associate.Nearby the Spanish Prime Minister creeps out of a grave. Looking on is Generalisimo Francisco Franco, the departed former fascist dictator. This alludes to the fact that only last year were the local opposition parties able to forge a deal with the reluctant mayor to remove the honorary “Mayor for Life” title bestowed on Franco.
In Valencia, one particularly strident Ninot, covered a whole spectrum of discontent using a theme of meteorologic terms. A caricature of police attacking young students protesting cutbacks was labeled “Atmospheric Repression”. Next to a representation of “Acid Rain”, was a section labeled “golden rain” which depicted a European Union angel urinating coins down a toilet labeled “Spain” as the kneeling Spanish Prime Minister Mariano Rajoy recites a prayer, “Our rescue, who art in heaven…”
No topic is off limits here, and another section used a play on words based on the Spanish word for “royal”, which is “real”, and contrasted impoverished “real” Spaniards with the nicely dressed “unreal” royal family. It is not only Spanish politicians who are ridiculed. The widely despised German Chancellor Angela Merkel was also depicted in a variety of scenes.
I am sure that there are some leaders here who breathe a sigh of relief when the Ninots are ultimately destroyed in flames.

Images of Valencia

Right after the “Plantà”, I was fortunate enough to be invited by my friends Emi and Jordi on an excursion to the capital. I want to share a few scenes from the Fallas in the city of Valencia, including a crowd view (or actually, lack of view!) of a mascleta, a glimpse of the massive crowds, the carnival atmosphere, and a peek at some of the Ninots. There was a band of percussionists on one corner, whose rhythm seemed to mimic the continued thundering explosions of the mascleta, so I have used the sound of their drums as a background for some of the scenes.

It is difficult to convey just how packed with people the city of Valencia becomes during Fallas. When it was time for the “Cremà”, I stuck close to home in Xàtiva, rather than experience the madness in the city!

For years I have wanted to walk the “Camino de Santiago”. This is a pilgrimage route that ends in the city Santiago de Compestela in western Spain. The route dates from the middle ages. But after my bad fall, and the reconstruction of my ankle, I decided it would never happen.

The summer of 2012 when we were in Xàtiva, I rejoined the local exercise group “Ruta Sana”, which involves three walks of an hour every week, followed by some stretching exercises. The first time back with them was difficult, and my ankle ached afterward. I was sure I couldn’t continue. But I did. And my ankle got stronger and stronger. It was good medicine.

By mid-July, I decided I was ready to go and at least look at where the Camino de Santiago crosses the border from France, and enters Spain. And I thought that perhaps I could at least walk a mile

or so of it for fun.

 

I took the train to my old friend, the city of Zaragoza, and then got on another train that went through the city of Huesca and on toward the Pyrenees. Soon after Huesca, the scenery began to get dramatic.  We passed by the “Mallos de Riglos”- a group of huge rock formations jutting skyward.

 

 

 

 

 

Soon the peaks of the Pyrenees came into sight beyond lush farmland and forests.

 

I got off near the end of the line, in Jaca, and checked into a comfy hotel near the town center. Although it was July, as evening approached the air became chilly (the elevation of Jaca is  2,690 ft above sea level). I asked about local transportation, and

discovered that there is a bus that heads up toward the French border, stopping at small towns along the way, as well as a couple of ski areas near the top of the Somport Pass. Jaca – Castello de Jaca – Villanua – Canfranc (town), Canfranc Station, Candanchu (ski resort), Astún (ski resort). The next morning, I headed out on the yellow bus.

I had already mapped out an itinerary that involved a stop partway up, where I could amble along a less brutal section of the trail to see if I could handle it. But for the purpose of this account, we will jump forward, to my arrival at Somport pass.

 

The bus stopped in a turn-off right below the border, before continuing onward to the ski resort of Astún. The main highway to France passes through a tunnel, but there is still a roadway that crosses over the top of the pass. Like most borders within the European Union, this is no longer guarded, no passport is needed to cross, and the gate remains in its open position.

 

 

I walked fifty meters into France and admired the view into the country. (remember that you can click on any of these pictures for a larger view!)

 

 

 

 

At the top of the pass is a shrine that marks the crossing of the Camino de Santiago into Spain, and then the trail heads down the mountain. This route is very well marked and the trail is well traveled.

 

 

In addition to its status as the “Camino de Santiago” the trail within Spain is one of the designated “Long routes” for hiking, and this is indicated with a route number and red/white trail markings

Onward I go heading down the mountain toward Canfranc Estación! The scenery and mountain views were, of course, stunning. I have spent lots of time in the Rocky Mountains, which are beautiful. The Pyrenees have a quite different feel to them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some who walk “The Camino”, move along at a fast pace, with the ultimate destination in mind.

On the other hand, I am a rambler. Constantly stopping to look around and take in the scenery.

 

I try to see every little thing, and all the big things too!

 

 

 

 

On a trail like this, it is impossible for me to just forge ahead, eyes glued only to the path in front of me.

 

 

 

In places the trail was easy, and gentle. In other places it got a bit rugged. But my ankle held out!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One difference between the part of the Rockies with which I am familiar, and this area of the Pyrenees, is that it is pastoral. Along the way I encountered a large flock of sheep with their little tinkling bells. I first heard, then saw a small group of cattle, their deep cowbells clanking.

There was also a pair of horses in a small corral. They sported colorful leather bridles festooned with round, silver colored jingly bells.

 

 

 

 

My eyes always searching, I saw this small tunnel. What was it for? When was it built? On one hand, there was a likelihood due to its rather small cross-dimension, that it was for irrigation, or control of water. But on the other hand, in the location where

I saw it, there was really nothing to irrigate. In my mind I imagined some obscure use by partisans of the civil war, hiding close to the border.

In the saddle of the mountain shown on the left, there is something that looked to be perhaps a ruined castle. Certainly there is no shortage of ruined castles in Spain! But when I got a better look, it was clear that it was only a “castle-like” outcropping.

Not too far from Canfranc Estación, as I walked along the trail, I could see this ruined building up on a rocky outcropping. Is is the “Fuerte de coll de Ladrones”- a fort dating to the 19th century, built over the remains of an earlier fort from the16th century. Given the depredations by Napoleon’s troops during their occupation of Spain, the Iberian nation had a sense of urgency to protect the border from its northern neighbor. But, as you saw in earlier pictures, the two countries now share an open border. This fort was auctioned off to private ownership in 1990. (What do you think Rhonda? could we put a Bed and Breakfast there?)

Getting closer to Canfranc Estación, the trail passes next to some deep ravines of the Áragon River, and there are signs providing guidance to those who practice the sport of climbing there.

Finally the Camino reaches Canfranc Estación. The now derelict building was inaugurated, in the presence of the king of Spain and the President of France, in 1928 as an international train station, controlling traffic between France and Spain. Various conflicts, including the Spanish civil war caused periodic closure of the route. The station included both Spanish and French portions, and during the Second World War, when France was controlled by Nazi Germany, the Nazi’s used the French portion of the station, and there are even tales of Nazi gold being smuggled through the station. Apparently the station appeared in the movie “Doctor Zhivago”. Sounds like a good excuse to watch that great film again!

In 1970 a freight train derailed on the section of track in France, destroying an important bridge. International traffic was stopped and has not resumed. There are periodic calls to make repairs and reopen the route. The station itself has been declared a national historic site. There have been various plans to rehabilitate the structure as a hotel, as a railroad museum… But today it stands vacant. That same small regional train that I rode from Zaragoza terminates at this spot, using the tiny building you can see at the extreme left in the photo as the ticket station.

The the left you can see where the railway used to enter a tunnel to head under the mountain peaks and get to France. You can take a chilly walk a little way into the tunnel before reaching a barricade that seals it off.

 

 

 

 

The  Áragon River runs right through the narrow town of Canfranc Estación.

One of the big differences between backpacking in the wilderness of the Rockies, and walking the Camino, is that on the Camino you constantly pass through towns, where you can grab a bite to eat- either dining there, or slipping something into your pack for later. Ahhh… a small loaf of very tasty bread and a “Limón” soda.

 

 

 

 

As I previously mentioned, the trail is well marked. Here on the end of a bridge, you can see the “shell” logo of the Camino, the yellow arrow- another marking for the camino, and the red and white stripes marking the “Grand Route” within Spain.

A couple miles down the trail from Canfranc Estación, you arrive at the town of Canfranc. It is a fairly small town, of solid stone buildings, situated in a narrow strip between the highway and the river.

 

 

 

 

Most “Peregrinos” (pilgrims) who walk the Camino de Santiago stay in inexpensive, spartan lodgings called “Albergues”. Just before I passed this one, a small knot of Peregrinos headed out from it, preceding me down the trail toward the next town.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I spotted this ruined building, and have added it to my list as a potential Bed and Breakfast!

 

 

 

Just past the town of Canfranc, you come to this picturesque bridge rather interestingly known as the “new” bridge. Well, it is new in the sense that it replaced an older one! In terms of Spanish history, I suppose it is rather new, dating to 1599.

 

This part of the Camino is a truly lovely trail, with a wide variety of scenery. Much of the trail is remote from roads. These are examples of tranquil forest segments.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At this point the trail was roughly following the river, and since the river passed under the highway, so did the trail!

 

 

 

Looking back I was rewarded with a beautiful view of the peaks of the Pyrenees.

 

 

The next town, after Canfranc, is Villanua. The day I was there, townsfolk were participating in a mountain trail run. I had to keep carefully to the side after the point when their circuit joined the Camino.

Villanua seems to be a place that warrants a return trip. Nearby there is an interesting grotto, and also a “Dolmen” -remnant of an earlier Celtic settlement.

Well, I am not ready to really “walk the Camino,” but I am ready to continue traversing its route, one segment at a time. Weather and ankle permitting, I hope to be back for a little more in 2013! Paso a paso, even a cojo like me can eventually make it the whole way!

Zaragoza

The city of Zaragoza in Aragon has drawn me again and again over the last 5 or 6 years. My initial visit was prompted by conversations with a clerk at a downtown Denver post office combined with engravings I had seen in old books of the remarkable “Leaning Tower of Zaragoza.”

Once there, I became more personally aware of the diverse history and cultural offerings of the town. Early visits made me aware of the Roman heritage, as well as its remarkable struggles in what is known as the Spanish war of independence- the bloody battles to rid the peninsula of Napoleon’s troops.

Il Trovatore

A monumental building of note in Zaragoza is the “Aljafería”- constructed in the middle of the eleventh century at the behest of Al-Muqtadir. In addition to its architectural significance, and ornate beauty, it is the setting for parts of “Il Trovatore”, Verdi’s famous opera.

Well, on my brief stopover in Zaragoza as I “took the long way home”, I saw posters announcing that Il Trovatore was to be performed in Zaragoza the following week. Well, I confess that I had never been to an opera in my life. But how could I pass up this opportunity? Il Trovatore in Zaragoza!

As soon as I got back to Xàtiva, I made the arrangements. I bought a ticket to the opera online, secured train reservations to get me there, and booked a hotel room. Ah! But I had nothing to wear! It being mid-summer, I decided to abandon any thought of a suit or sport coat, and made hasty acquisition of a tie and suitable tie clip.  I was ready. Timing of my arrival and stay in Zaragoza allowed me to first attend the Alfonsadas festival in nearby Calatayud.

Compromise of Caspe

As always, I picked up a copy of the local newspaper. It was filled with articles about the 600^th anniversary of the “Compromise of Caspe”. The papers had been going on and on about this the week before as well. I had never heard of it before, but the basic story is this- King Martin, ruler of the Kingdoms of Aragon and Valencia, died in 1410.  His domain also included Barcelona, Sicily, Sardinia, Corsica, and parts of what is now southern France. Martin’s only son had died previously, and there was no clear heir to the throne. Spain’s history is dotted with wars fought between disputing contenders for succession to the throne. In this case there were about a half dozen powerful men vying to become king. In a rather inspired approach, a group of nine respected dignitaries were appointed with the task of resolving the dispute and selecting Martin’s successor. This process and their decision took place in 1412, and they named Ferdinand I (Grandfather of the Ferdinand who figures in the story of Christopher Columbus). In spite of these measured deliberations, armed conflict did occur. One of the losing pretenders to the throne, the Count of Urgel, sought to impose his claim through force. However he was defeated and imprisoned.

 

A Night at the Opera

As curtain time grew near, I headed from my hotel room across town to the Zaragoza Auditorium. As I took my seat I was relieved to see only a few men wearing jackets. So I would not be singled out for dress-code ridicule. I waited for the curtain to rise. Since the opera is in Italian, I thought I should read the program, and learn the full story I was about to see. It is a twisted tale of love, rivalry, betrayal, and mistaken identity.

The power of the orchestra and singing was overwhelmingly beautiful. I enjoyed the performance completely, and when it was done, I headed back to my room.

Linkage

On the train, heading home, I read more of the articles about the Compromise of Caspe. Suddenly it came together. I was surprised that it had not been explicitly pointed out in the program. The story of Il Trovatore is directly related to the Compromise of Caspe and struggle over the succession to the throne. Manrico, the “troubadour” in the story, is a follower of the Count of Urgel, fighting his losing battle to usurp the throne.  Not only had I seen the opera in the city that figures in the story, but I was seeing it on the 600^th anniversary of the event central to the story. (In fact, the night I attended was 600 years to the day after the decision so select Ferdinand had been reached.)

Footnote- a final convergence

A week after the opera, I was talking with my good friend Rafa, as we walked toward my house. We had chatted about a variety of topics and I began to explain my experience at the opera, and the convergence of location and anniversaries. Spanish history is longer and far more complex and convoluted than American history. It is quite difficult for most to keep track of more than little pieces. When I mentioned the Compromise of Caspe, Rafa drew a blank. I continued my story, and got to the part where Manrico, the troubadour, was a partisan fighting for the Count of Urgel. Rafa stopped in his tracks and gave me a peculiar, questioning look with a tilted head. “The Count of Urgel?” he asked me. “Did you say the Count of Urgel?” I assured him that he had heard correctly. Rafa looked at me and pointed to Xàtiva’s castle, a half mile up the hill. “The Count of Urgel was held prisoner in that very castle until he died!”

This convergence of the fictional story of the opera, set in a real historical context, 600 years ago, linked to Zaragoza, had now connected back to the castle that I can see from the bedroom of my house in Xàtiva. I smiled as we continued down the street.

It is an understatement to say that Spain is infused with history. And that history is constantly evident in the culture, customs, and monuments. It is visible in the historical cities, towns, and neighborhoods. Sometimes it can be seen in the ruins of Iberian or Roman cities; or in the hulking remnants of castles that were once dominant bastions of power.
The history of Spain also comes alive through the many festivals that celebrate various historical events.

I more or less blundered into the Alfonsadas festival in Calatayud. This celebrates the conquest of the city by Alfonso I in June of the year 1120. (I know that some amateur fact checker monitoring my posts is going to encounter the Wikipedia entry for Calatayud and tell me that no, it was 1119. Sorry. All I can say is that you cannot believe everything you read in Wikipedia!)

At one level, one might just shrug their shoulders and say, “Ah, yet another festival in Spain with a medieval motif. Heck, there are such festivals everywhere. We even have the “Renaissance Festival” every year in Colorado.”  But remember that this is an example of a community celebrating local history and the imprint of events and cultural history. This is more like going to Concord in Massachusetts and seeing remembrances of the role that town played in the American Revolution, than a “Renaissance Festival” in Colorado!
Well, of course any festival is also an opportunity to party, to eat, to play, and to people watch. I have some pictures to share that represent what I saw there. It was a lot of fun:

There were exhibitions,

Food and shopping,

 

 

 

And a town packed with locals and visitors, with costumed participants, and families just there to enjoy themselves and have a good time!

No impressive photos, no remarkable stories to tell. So just scroll through the pictures and imagine how much fun I had!

Of course, one of the important challenges when you have a festival in a city of narrow, winding streets, is logistical. With many streets completely shut off for vendor stands, exhibition space, etc., traffic needed to be controlled and in many cases rerouted.
This portable traffic signal was one mechanism to handle the cars!

 

 

Hard to imagine a commemoration of a twelfth century conquest without some sort of sword play.  Here some re-enactment folks head up to the “Plaza de la leña” where a sword fighting competition is due to take place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I could not watch this without thinking of my old, sadly departed friend, Jeff. He liked nothing better than making chain mail and bashing around with swords…

 

 

Some prepared with companions.

Some got ready on their own.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And for one swordsman, it was a good luck kiss and “now put on your helmet and get with it!”

 

 

 

Referees watched over the matches.

And spectators looked on.

 

(I don’t know if the woman in the background is open-mouthed in shock at a brutal lunge… or just yawning! Hey guys! when is the real action going to start!)

The referee signals a point.

Calatayud also had a thriving Jewish community in the middle ages.

This group is wearing medallions with the star of David.

But now, let’s head down to the Plaza de San Andrés where as in the earlier festival in Xàtiva, there is a display of various raptors.

 

Of course, timing is everything. Here in Calatayud I got to see an exhibition of these birds of prey.

Two men, each wearing a large thick glove on one hand, took the birds out one by one and dazzled the crowd with a show of the birds flying from the arm of one to the arm of the other.

Some of these birds had huge wingspans! (and they all had dangerous talons!)

At one point, they had a bunch of kids get involved. They formed a line as the raptor was to fly over their outstretched arms.
But of course not all hunting was done with birds back then by any means! There was also an archery exhibition.

 

He shot balloons and other targets standing, kneeling, and over his shoulder.

All around
there were people of all ages playing a part in the festival.

 

 

Of course inevitably I was drawn to the food. There were plenty of places to grab something to eat on-site.

Including barbecue…

chips and churros…

There were also booths selling meats, cheese, breads, and all sorts of sweets.

“Chorizo” is not exactly the same thing in Spain, as it is in Mexico and the United States. Here you see signs for spicy chorizo and for sweet chorizo. Often when you buy “chorizo” in Spain, it is what we would call pepperoni.

For any of you who are bi-lingual… yes, you read the sign at the top correctly. Just as in France, some people in Spain eat horse meat. (no, I do not)

And (but of course!) tubs full of olives.

Sweets

Besides food items, there were also a wide variety of handicrafts, perfumes, incense, and jewelry for sale.

But what would a festival like this be if there were not topical play-gear and souvenirs?

Wooden swords for the kids too!

There were lovely replicas of mudejar architecture for sale. Expensive but really well made. Sometimes I wonder if I should have brought one home in my suitcase!

During the festival there was an overabundance of things to see. Period musicians, jugglers, rides for the kids, etc.

Of course, a lot of the fun was just watching the people- both attendees and participants in the shows.

On the right, a peasant with genuine medieval digital camera.

 

 

 

Remember that Spain’s history includes hundreds of years of “Moorish” domination. A history that is not forgotten. The Moors brought irrigation, and many of the foods grown in Spain today, as well a distinctive architectural style.

 

 

 

 

 

 

People were friendly, and also loved to play their parts. I saw the guy in the picture below sipping a beer. His wife nudged him and pointed me out, seeing that I was taking pictures. She held his beer as he posed solemnly. (Though I must say it was not very Moorish of him to be sipping beer!)

People really seemed to enjoy themselves.

 

 

 

 

Well, I guess the middle ages wasn’t all swords and fighting!

🙂

Wow! you made it to the end! Thanks for your patience!

I will leave you with one off-topic picture of tapas from the bar heading back to the train station. (Always thinking of food!)Next-

Zaragoza: “A night at the opera”

In Calatayud and Zaragoza, I found out about upcoming events that had be heading right back to those cities a week after returning home to Xàtiva. In Calatayud it was the “Alfonsadas” festival, and in Zaragoza the opera.

But before I get into those two events, here are a few pictures from Calatayud unrelated to the festival.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Onward to the Alfonsadas!

 

Anyone who visits Spain must visit Barcelona. And I mean spend some days in the city. There is so much to see. The old town, the architectural wonders of Antonio Gaudi, the sea. Barcelona always makes me feel alive!
Unfortunately this time around, I just passed through the town which is the capital of Catalunya, and the second largest city in Spain. I had a couple hour layover between trains, as I veered back south along the coast to head back through Valencia to Xàtiva.

I made good use of the time, taking a subway to the harbor, a short amble on the “Ramblas”, and then back by subway to the train station.