Fond memories of Tia.
She remains in our thoughts. She remains in our hearts.
She will forever remain with us.
Descansa en paz.
Tia – Descansa en paz
Category Archives: Spain
Travel in Spain
Slow Train To Spain
Well, it was time for me to once again get out of town and start some traveling! I hadn’t been to Spain since the springtime, so I had my sights set on a trip there.
I decided that on the way, I’d visit my daughter (and her husband) in Wilmington, Delaware, and also my brother in New Jersey.
I had some Amtrak rail-travel credits burning a hole in my pocket, so I decided to go by train. The distances were long, and American trains are excruciatingly slow, quite unlike the high-speed options in Spain and China. So, to get from Denver to Wilmington (through Chicago and Washington, D.C.) would take three days! Well, off I go!
First it was the bus, then Denver’s “light rail” to get to “Union Station”, which was all decked out for the holidays, and buzzing with activity!
The train was late. Ah Amtrak, SLOW *and* LATE!
So, I had a beer and some fries to kill time and take the edge off my hunger.
The train finally arrived, so it was time to board the clunky, vintage (out of date) double-decker coaches.
I had a sleeper-compartment, so that meant I would travel in the lap of luxury! Well, sort of… the “roomette” is a bit cramped, but at least it is private space. And traveling in a sleeper, all meals are included! Hello dining car!
Of course, since I had snacked at the station, I did not have much of an appetite, so I just ate a salad, and half a dessert.
Th next morning, we were traversing the great plains. One of my favorite spots along the Denver-Chicago route is crossing the Mississippi River! Many years ago, we used to see Bald Eagles along the river, but not recently, and not this trip.
Eventually we arrived in Chicago’s Union Station. The train platforms are dark, cramped, and smell of diesel fumes. Pretty hellish.
Please, let me out of here and get me to the remodeled magnificence of the public areas of the station!
Well, the “Great Hall” did have some nice holiday displays, but Chicago’s station has none of the vibrancy of Denver’s remodeled station. Basically it was new walls, new paint, and no new features.
Time to brave the cold and walks the nearby downtown Chicago streets!
Outside, the weather was actually pleasant! Every other time Rhonda and I stopped over in Chicago, there were freezing cold winds and often snow. I had looked forward to visiting the showroom of the “Paragon Book Gallery”, a specialty book seller that I used to go to in New York City with my Dad. It carries a vast stock of obscure books related to Asia. But alas, I had contacted them ahead of time, and they do not currently have any physical store-front, doing all their business online while they keep their eyes out for some suitable retail location. Next time!
As I lazily wandered the streets I did pass a few nice restaurants. When I saw a Potbelly sandwich shop, (which I love) I considered picking up a sandwich “to go” that I could eat on the train. But why? As a sleeping car passenger, all the fancy dinner options on the dining care are available at not extra cost!
So I returned to the lounge and waited until it was time to board my next train, heading to Washington D.C.
OK, mega-fail! Some background. America is doing its darnedest to kill off the few remaining long distance train routes, and push all travel to heavily polluting aircraft, and heavily polluting private cars plying the highways. So far, try as Amtrak may to make riding the train a disagreeable experience, people still ride the rails. So, in a more recent move, they have started eliminating kitchens for the dining cars. Now all passengers except those in sleeping cars are banned from the dining car. And rather than cooked food, they offer some crappy TV-dinners. To go along with this new experience, they hand you the new “Flexible Dining Menu”. The dining room staff, in an effort to not be ejected from the moving train by passengers, did offer a free beer along with “supper”. Well, the beer was good, the food terrible. Bummer! I really wished I had known ahead of time and picked up a sandwich in Chicago!
And no more pancakes, waffles, eggs etc for breakfast. Now you choose which boxed cereal you want. Well, the banana was real. The coffee? None available. I had to go back to my sleeper car and bring some from there.
Ah! Washington, D.C.! My birthplace! I was able to check my bags and wander a bit. Union Station… the Capitol building…
I decided to head to the White House to see what was shakin’
Machine gun toting cops (don’t dare take their photos!) were keeping the protesting crazies at bay.
Well, this is America. The tens of millions of people who are disgusted by the actions of the occupant of the White House, (who sneaked in the back door with three million votes less than his opponent), just spend their time jogging, staring at sitcoms on the boob-tube, watching sports, and (mostly) sleeping.
From Washington I took the Northeast Regional to Wilmington, Delaware, where Andrea, Jimmy, and Rhonda picked me up at the station. (Rhonda did not come on the train, opting to travel to the east by plane)
Andrea and Jimmy had moved into a new house since I last visited them. Nice place. We spent the first evening listening to Jimmy’s records. Yep, records… those vinyl disks. Remember them? Heard your grandpa mention them? ha ha.
From Wilmington, I next took a train to Trenton (Capital of New Jersey), where my brother picked me up and drove me back to his house in Pennington. We had a great weekend, starting with a few slices of pizza at “Beniamino’s” in the Montgomery Shopping Center. This is the new incarnation of pizza at the old “Rudolfo’s” which I adored. They told me that the guy who last ran Rudolfo’s, who since moved back to Italy, does stop by when he is in town.
Chris and I had a great time driving around New Jersey, then Pennsylvania, then New Jersey again. Lots of memories from our youth! We even got near the site of an old Boy Scout camp that our parents packed us off to a few years during the summer.
When the day came from my flight to Spain I took the train up to Newark Airport. Good lord! the terminal was out of control. Everything there seemed to require interaction with one of the thousands of fixed tablet devices positioned *everywhere*. You couldn’t order food at a restaurant by just telling a waiter/ess what you wanted. You had to negotiate an inane set of screens. I couldn’t figure it out Neither could anyone around me. So staff and to press the screen selections for everyone. And then, in the end, it disconnected the humans who worked there from the customers. Every person around me (and including me) ended up with a problem with the order and the “customer service” ended up horrible, because the “computer” was the waiter, not the person.
Out of control technology. “Fixing” a system what was not broken, and in the end, breaking it.
Then, on to Spain!
Hasta la proxima
It was time to say goodbye, until the next time!
Sneak Preview of Cartagena
I am back in Xàtiva after spending a few days in Cartagena, a city located in Murcia.
Great place! I love it! Full of history, and also a major port on the sea.
I took lots of photos, but it will take a few more days to sort through them all. When those are ready, I will post an alert here, and put the pictures on the Pere’s Ramblings page.
In the meantime, take a look!
Got your interest? Stay tuned!
Zaragoza 2019
(Click on any photo for a high-resolution version.
Haga clic en cualquier foto para abrir una versión de alta resolución.)
Zaragoza sits on the banks of the Ebro River. It is an ancient city, and its name is an evolutionary corruption of the city’s name from Roman times: “Caesaragustus”.
I have been to Zaragoza numerous times. The first time was a search for a certain tower, other times to look at the Roman ruins, or the museum with information about the two sieges of Zaragoza from Spain’s War of Independence fought against Napoleon’s troops. One trip was specifically to watch a Verdi opera.
In the photo, the old “Delicias” train station is dwarfed by the current station. The new station had already been built by the time I first visited Zaragoza, its cavernous interior and inadequate heating left passengers shivering indoors.
The Aljaferia Palace ( قصر الجعفرية ) was originally built during the 11th century by Spain’s Muslim rulers. Through various wars it was repeatedly damaged and repaired/rebuilt. It is the site of various scenes in Verdi’s “Il Trovadore” opera. Today it serves as the home of Aragon’s legislature.
On Calle Coso we find the Palacio de los Luna. Today it holds the halls of justice, and one might get a certain opinion about how justice is administrated by the statues. 🙂 Actually these represent Hercules and Gerion from Greek mythology.
One of two cathedrals in the old quarter is “La Catedral del Salvador en su Epifanía de Zaragoza”. Wow, that’s a mouthful! The residents call it “La Seu” for short. (The same name given to the large “non-cathedral” in my town of Xàtiva.)
The famous painter Francisco Goya’s life was tightly linked to Zaragoza. His dramatic paintings related to the fight against Napoleon are vivid images of the violence of war.
Originally built in the 15th century, this stone bridge spans the Ebro River.
The cathedral of “Our lady of the Pillar” sits on the bank of the Ebro River. The mythology regarding an appearance of the Virgin Mary and a wooden statue caused this site to be revered.
The “Calle de Alfonso I” is a major shopping street in Zaragoza’s “old quarter”. It leads from the Calle del Coso to the plaza in front of the Pilar cathedral.
The plaza in front of the cathedral is lined with restaurants and is a popular place to eat.
Day or night the Pilar Cathedral is a beautiful sight.
Stations of the snapshot
The hill upon which lies the “Calvario” church has a great view over the city, as well as a great perspective of the castle. Morning is best when the sun is at your back and Xàtiva is basking in the glow of its rays.
“Calvario”(Calvary) chapels are fairly common in Spain, typified by a zig-zag upward path with stations of the cross at each bend.
By Xàtiva’s standards, this is a relatively “new” shrine, originally built in the 18th century and restored in the late 20th century. But the youth of the structure in no way detracts from the wonderful views as you climb up.
Climbing the path up to the shrine one is treated to gradually changing vistas of the city and upward toward the castles.
In the photo above, you can see scaffolding in place as part of the upper castle undergoes repair work. The section of castle on the right include the current entrance to the castle. Click on the photo if you want to zoom in!
The hill in the background of the above photo is “El Puig”. On top are the ruins of the Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Puig, which is under reconstruction to prevent its total collapse.
Time to head back down and walk home.
At the left side in this photo we new see the “Colegio la Immaculada”, a primary school attended by a friend’s son and where my “cousin” Fanny teaches.
Heading back toward my house I climb upward toward a break in the old city wall.
Heading home I get another view of la Seu and can also see the little street “Collar de la Paloma” and my house.
Above you can see an enlarged view of Rinconada Collar de la Paloma, and my home sweet home.
I pass one last monument- Sant Josep, before descending to my house.
Rancho de salva
My friends Natalia, Salva, Voro, and Nico have a ranch.
OK, I say “friends”, but honestly Natalia and Salva feel like much more than just friends. They feel like family, like close cousins.
OK, it is not exactly a ranch.
For a number of years they have had a small bit of land up on a hill outside Canals. It was dry, and a bit barren, but it did have a view to the distance of Montesa. This year, Salva proudly announced to me that they had bought a bit of land at the edge of Annauir, their hometown.
“Want to go take a look?”
“Of course!” I answered.
The plot of land was enclosed within a fence and included a couple of sheds/outbuildings. He pointed out what would soon be his chicken coop, and a variety of fruit trees. Variety? There was at least one of just about every fruit tree you can imagine. They had not had the property very long, and he was working to fix things up a bit before the heat of summer arrived. He was placing irrigation tubing within a fabric-protected greenhouse where he would plant a variety of vegetables.
Outside, by the border fence there were roses and even some grape vines, with tiny budding grapes.
About a month later, before I headed home to Colorado, Salva took me back again. The coop had chickens clucking along who decided that perhaps my shoes were food-like substances. Vegetables were slowly growing in the garden area, and crazy snails were working their way up any vertical surface or stick.
I think it is great that their two small children would have this bit of terreno as part of their world as they grow up.
As Salva drove me back to Xàtiva I said to him, “You have a really good life here.”
He said “Yes, we are happy. A person can always want more. But if we are not satisfied with what we have, a person will never be happy.”
Visiting Friends in Ontinyent
The weather is getting much nicer, and I decided it was high time I visited my friends Rafa and Marta who live in Ontinyent.
(click on any photo to go to an enlarged view. In that view, click again to “zoom in”.)
Rafa picked me up in Xàtiva, and they showed me their beautiful flat before we headed out to see the sights.
Very close to town is an oasis called Pou Clar (Clear Spring)
It is a tranquil haven right off a highway, but down below you can’t even hear the cars.
This park is quite extensive with a series of trails that follow the water, but one trail also climbs up the hill on the other side where there are picnic benches protected by signs that warn that picnicking is strictly forbidden. 😂😂
This area is near a spot I have often admired from the train that runs to Alcoy. As the train slips out into the open air between tunnels, there is a quick glimpse of a complex of buildings that includes what looks like a castle gate leading into the hillside. I have always been curious about it, but nobody seemed to know much about it.
Well, today, a couple of kilometers from Pou Clar, we stopped by the entrance to that site. “Al Barranc el Castell i la Noria” (the castle and wheelhouse in the ravine)
After getting that all straightened out, we headed to our next destination!
We continued up the road to the beautiful little town of Bocarient. Rhonda and I had been there a decade or more ago. From the highway, the view of the church and the town’s jumble of old houses is stunning!
When we visited, we had heard of a hilltop bull-ring carved out of the native stone, but had been unable to find it. Rafa navigated his car up and down a series of extremely narrow one-way streets and took us to the edge of the bull ring. I am not a fan of bull fights, but this was a very interesting sight!
Time to eat! We headed back to Ontinyent, where our treasured guide Marta led us to an elegant restaurant. The morning travels had sparked our appetites. The Salmorejo I had as my “first dish” was definitely not on my diet plan! But it was delicious!
My “second course” was “Grandma’s paella”. This wasn’t going to help my diet either! (and don’t even ask about how the wine you see in the photo fits in!) To wrap things up we each had yummy flan. OK, this probably set my weight reduction plan back a whole week, but it was so delicious!
Next, Rafa and Marta took me to the Hermita de San Esteve, which is high atop a mountain with a stunning view over the entire area. On the drive up, Rafa recounted a recent strenuous bicycle ride up to the top.
I felt as if I had worked off some of my meal’s calories just by listening to the account!
There are metal plates with all the sights you can see from this panoramic view. Of great interest me was the “compass rose” that identified which directions the view included. At the top it says south. But I was fascinated by the labels for east and west: Llevant (rise) for east, and Ponent (set) for west!
After admiring the view for a bit, we took shelter from the sun and sat for a bit to recover from the meal.
OK, time to stop lollygagging! Back to Oninyent to see the sights of the town! We headed toward the old quarter and walked past the Santa Maria church which boasts the tallest bell tower in the region.
The view across the old part of town was quite pleasant!
One roof sported a strange, intricate clock. It was a mystery. We later walked in front of the building that the clock adorned, but it was nothing special at all. Go figure. Somewhere there is a story…
On a wall, there was a painted image of a cat with wings: “The cat on the roof meowing for love”
Last but not least, two bridges over the Clariano River: One low, one high.
Back to Xàtiva now!
Valencia’s “Mercado Central”
Today I was on a special shopping mission in Valencia. During my search for a particular item, I made a brief detour through Valencia’s massive, covered Central Market.
We had been to it several times about 15 years ago, but then massive renovations began. I am not sure exactly when the work finished, but this was the first time I had been inside the building since its rebirth.
Oh my goodness!
Amazing: Such a beautiful building! And what a wide assortment of fruits, seafood, meats, and any other type of food you can imagine. There is a sign that says something to the effect of “If you can’t find something here, it is quite possible it is not available anywhere.” They could be right!
Time to walk
My “SlackerBit” (the anti-FitBit) started nagging me that being a slacker is one thing, but that I had become almost immobile. It gave me a kick in the posterior and told me I had better walk, or else start looking for pants with a yet-larger waist size. So… I ambled up to the handy nearby castle and back. 🙂
My SlackerBit said “OK, fine. Now what are you going to do tomorrow?”
🙂